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One topic that is on the training agenda year after year for the USDA Inspectors is the topic of size involving tomatoes. I'll try my best to keep this short, clear, and easy to understand. Tomatoes are designated in size by two different methods. You may see your tomatoes being marked as Small, Medium, Large, or Extra Large. Or you may see your cartons marked as 5 x 6,
6 x 6, or 6 x 7. Is there a difference, and why the different markings?

  1. Tomatoes 2 3 Torrent
  2. Planting Tomatoes 2/3 Deep

As with peppers and eggplants, tomato seeds are best started in a greenhouse and transplanted 2-3 weeks after the last average frost. With soil temperatures at 75° F., they germinate in 1-2 weeks. Another 4-5 weeks at that air temperature plus a few days of hardening at 60-65° F. Tomatoes grow best in soils that have lots of organic matter. If possible, spread 2 to 3 inches of organic material such as compost, leaves, or rotted hay over the planting area. Mix this organic material into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. Most families need only a few plants, so it is best to buy plants and not grow them from seed.

Years ago, when tomatoes were first packed and shipped throughout the country, the majority of the packing was done by hand, placing each tomato into the carton. The tomatoes were uniformly sized by the packer to place the tomatoes in rows, such as 6 tomatoes across one way and 6 tomatoes across the other, hence the 6 x 6 pack.

If the tomatoes were larger, the packer could only fit 5 tomatoes one way, while placing 6 tomatoes across, making that a 5 x 6 pack, shown above. Cudatext 1 83 15. Actual size dimensions (minimum diameter and maximum diameter) were later established for a 6 x 6 tomato as well as the other packs, such as a 4 x 5, 5 x 6, 6 x 7 and a 7 x 7. We still see this concept today in tray packs, although the tomatoes are no longer being sized by the judgement of the packer.

Many of the larger tomato packers and re-packers size their tomatoes using optical technology. The tomatoes pass under cameras which instantaneously take a picture, and measure the size, and send that tomato to the correct packing line.

As you can see, the tomatoes are measured to the hundredth of millimeter, ensuring the tomatoes are packed in the carton, with the designated size.

But let's get back to the beginning…….why the different designations? When the U.S. Grade Standards for Tomatoes was developed a uniform method of sizing tomatoes was established. Time sink 1 2 6. The tomato industry across the United States requested a simple method, so 4 size categories were created, small, medium, large and extra large. Size designations were set, for each size. For example, a tomato marked as Large means it must be larger than 2-1/2 inches in diameter but no larger than 2-25/32 inches in diameter, to keep the tomatoes fairly uniform in size.

The Florida Tomato Industry decided to keep the established method of sizing tomatoes, so they do not use the U.S. Grade Standard size designations, they still use most of the original size terms. The Florida growers pack their tomatoes to three size designations, 5 x 6, 6 x 6 and 6 x 7. The size designations they established are a little different than the U.S. Grade Standard sizes. For example, a 6 x 6 is similar to the Large tomato, but the minimum diameter for a 6 x 6 tomatoes is 2-17/32 of an inch, 1/32 larger than the large size. The maximum diameter of a 6 x 6 is 2-29/32 of an inch, 4/32 of an inch larger than the large size.

Tomatoes 2 3 Torrent

Because of the different size designations and diameters of each, two sets of tomato sizers are available. As an inspector it is pretty simple; if the tomatoes are marked with the size markings of 'Small', 'Medium', 'Large' or 'Extra Large' use the sizer marked as such. If the tomatoes come from Florida, or from any state which also packs using the numerical markings (which is most) use the Florida Tomato Sizer, marked as '5 x 6', '6 x 6' or '6 x 7.'

If you need to purchase one or both of the sizers, they are available for purchase from the USDA Inspection Service's Supply Depot. Click here for the link to their inspection equipment catalog.

The taste of homegrown tomatoes right off the vine is truly a small slice of heaven. Read our planting and care instructions to learn how to grow award winning tomatoes!

SOIL: Well-drained soil that is high in organic matter is best. If your soil tends to be heavy or sandy, dig in Sloat Loam Builder. Sloat Forest Mulch Plus, which contains 15% chicken manure is also a good choice. Incorporate Agricultural Lime it ensure a good supply of calcium. Calcium prevents blossom end rot and helps build strong cell walls.

SUN: Tomatoes require full sun. This is considered no less than 6 hours of direct sun per day. Plants will be weak and unhealthy with anything less. In cool areas, planting tomatoes against a sunny wall or fence will help in production and ripening of fruit. We have listed some of the most reliable cool weather tomatoes at the bottom of the page. In general, they are varieties that ripen in 85 days or less.

PLANTING: Make the planting hole extra deep. Plant the young tomatoes deep in the hole so that the first set of leaves is just above the soil level. Roots will form on the buried stem, creating a larger and stronger root system. If you use tomato cages, be sure to put them in place before the plants get too large. Don't skimp on the size of the cage, tomatoes WILL outgrow smaller cages, eventually falling over and possibly breaking. A 1' x 1' stake that is 6 feet tall, driven firmly into the ground will also provide adequate support. Place it one foot from the base of the plant. Tie the plant onto the stake as it grows. Use ties that will not cut or chafe the stem of the plant. Water young plants deeply and frequently, tapering off as fruit develops. Never water tomatoes from above.

FERTILIZER: An All Purpose fertilizer or vegetable food should be applied every 2 weeks, beginning when blossoms first appear. Maxsea All Purpose or EB Stone Organic Tomato Vegetable Food are good choices.

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PRUNING: Pinch off the small leaves which appear in the crotch above a larger stem. Don't pinch off too many large leaves or the sun will burn developing fruit. Pinching back the top of the plant after it reaches the top of your stake or cage encourages more flowering and fruit.

CONTAINERS: Tomatoes can be grown in barrels or tubs very easily. Plant them in Sloat Organic Potting Soil and fertilize them as you would in the ground. Choose determinate (bush type) tomatoes that will require little or no staking. Cherry tomatoes can even be grown in hanging baskets, which makes harvesting a breeze!

MULCHING: You can mulch around the plants after the soil has warmed, to keep moisture from evaporating. Plants will not begin to set fruit until the nighttime temps are regularly above 55 degrees. Using Harvest Guard Protective Cover at night may prevent the blossoms from falling off because of cold night temps (it can also be used for frost protection of citrus and other tender plants in the winter).

Tomatoes

PRUNING: Pinch off the small leaves which appear in the crotch above a larger stem. Don't pinch off too many large leaves or the sun will burn developing fruit. Pinching back the top of the plant after it reaches the top of your stake or cage encourages more flowering and fruit.

CONTAINERS: Tomatoes can be grown in barrels or tubs very easily. Plant them in Sloat Organic Potting Soil and fertilize them as you would in the ground. Choose determinate (bush type) tomatoes that will require little or no staking. Cherry tomatoes can even be grown in hanging baskets, which makes harvesting a breeze!

MULCHING: You can mulch around the plants after the soil has warmed, to keep moisture from evaporating. Plants will not begin to set fruit until the nighttime temps are regularly above 55 degrees. Using Harvest Guard Protective Cover at night may prevent the blossoms from falling off because of cold night temps (it can also be used for frost protection of citrus and other tender plants in the winter).

WATERING: Your plants should be deep watered 2 to 3 times a week. If the plant is seen wilting in the middle of the day, ignore it. Tomatoes will close their stomas in the heat of the day to prevent water loss by transpiration. They will perk right back up by late afternoon. If the plants look droopy in the morning, they need water.

RIPENING: Tomatoes will fully ripen at least a month and a half after they set. Generally the earliest one can expect edible fruit would be the end of July. Determinate tomatoes (the shorter, bush type) will ripen all at once, with fruit concentrated at the top/tips of the plants. Indeterminate tomatoes can continue to ripen into the fall. Our staff experimented with Yellow Pear tomatoes grown in a pot one year and had tomatoes still ripening in November at 45th and Cabrillo in San Francisco!

Tomatoes can be stored for a maximum of three days in a dark warm place and should NEVER be refrigerated. Enjoy…These lovely fruits are full of Vitamins A and C and low in calories!

Tomato varieties for cool weather:

AnnaJetsetterGlasnost
SungoldPurple RussianCarmelo
Green ZebraLemon BoyAunt Ruby's German
GreenOregon SpringYellow PearBlack Krim
SiletzStupiceJubilee
GlacierSweet MillionCaspian Pink
Early GirlCelebrityBig Beef
San Francisco Fog

Planting Tomatoes 2/3 Deep

All the organic CCOF tomatoes we sell at Sloat are locally grown in Sebastopol, Santa Cruz and St. Helena. The CCOF label means that they are organically grown from seeds that have not been genetically engineered and without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers.





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